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  • Pdf Drawing... 
  • GigaTrue 550 CAT6, 550-MHz Solid Bulk Cable (4-Pair, PVC, Green) PDF Drawing
    PDF Drawing for the EYN878A-PB-1000 (1)
 
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  • GigaTrue CAT6 Channel 550-MHz Patch Cable (UTP) with Snagless Boots (Green) PDF Drawing
    PDF Drawing of the EVNSL642 Series
 

Black Box Explains...Loose-tube vs. tight-buffered fiber optic cable.

There are two styles of fiber optic cable construction: loose tube and tight buffered. Both contain some type of strengthening member, such as aramid yarn, stainless steel wire strands, or... more/see it noweven gel-filled sleeves. But each is designed for very different environments.

Loose tube cables, the older of the two cable types, are specifically designed for harsh outdoor environments. They protect the fiber core, cladding, and coating by enclosing everything within semi-rigid protective sleeves or tubes. In loose-tube cables that hold more than one optical fiber, each individually sleeved core is bundled loosely within an all-encompassing outer jacket.

Many loose-tube cables also have a water-resistant gel that surrounds the fibers. This gel helps protect them from moisture, so the cables are great for harsh, high-humidity environments where water or condensation can be a problem. The gel-filled tubes can expand and contract with temperature changes, too.

But gel-filled loose-tube cables are not the best choice when cable needs to be submerged or where it’s routed around multiple bends. Excess cable strain can force fibers to emerge from the gel.

Tight-buffered cables, in contrast, are optimized for indoor applications. Because they’re sturdier than loose-tube cables, they’re best suited for moderate-length LAN/WAN connections, long indoor runs, and even direct burial. Tight-buffered cables are also recommended for underwater applications.

Instead of a gel layer or sleeve to protect the fiber core, tight-buffered cables use a two-layer coating. One is plastic; the other is waterproof acrylate. The acrylate coating keeps moisture away from the cable, like the gel-filled sleeves do for loose-tube cables. But this acrylate layer is bound tightly to the plastic fiber layer, so the core is never exposed (as it can be with gel-filled cables) when the cable is bent or compressed underwater.

Tight-buffered cables are also easier to install because there’s no messy gel to clean up and they don’t require a fan-out kit for splicing or termination. You can crimp connectors directly to each fiber.

Want the best of both worlds? Try a hybrid, breakout-style fiber optic cable, which combines tight-buffered cables within a loose-tube housing. collapse

  • Pdf Drawing... 
  • GigaStation2 Snap Fitting, SC Simplex, Female/Female, Ivory PDF Drawing
    PDF Drawing for FMT325-R3 (Version 1)
 
  • Pdf Drawing... 
  • GigaTrue CAT6 Channel 550-MHz Patch Cable (UTP) with Snagless Boots (Beige) PDF Drawing
    PDF Drawing of the EVNSL645 Series
 

Product Data Sheets (pdf)...Fiber Optic Cable (Distribution-Style) with Pulling Eye

  • Pdf Drawing... 
  • GigaBase 350 CAT5e Patch Cable, with Snagless Boots (Black) PDF Drawing
    PDF Drawing for the EVNSL87 series.
 
  • Pdf Drawing... 
  • Blue GigaBase2 CAT5e Jack with Universal Wiring
    Drawing for the FMT920-R2 and FMT920-R2-25PAK.
 

Black Box Explains...Cable termination.


Carefully remove the jacketing from the cable and expose one inch of the insulated wire conductors. Do not remove any insulation from the conductors. When the... more/see it nowRJ-45 connector is crimped, the contacts inside will pierce the conductor insulation.


Untwist the wires to within 1/8" of the jacket. Arrange the wires according to the cable spec (568B in this case). Flatten and align the wires. Make one straight cut across all the conductors, removing approximately 1/2" to ensure the ends are of equal length.


Slide the wires into a connector. The cable jacket should extend into the connector about 1/4" for strain relief. Orient the wires so connector Pin 1 aligns with cable Pin 1, etc. Hold the connector in front of you. With the locking tab down, Pin 1 is on the far left.


Insert the connector into a crimp tool. Make sure you’re using the proper die. Firmly squeeze the handles. They’ll lock in a ratcheting action. A final click indicates the connector is firmly latched.


Check your work using a continuity tester or cable certifier rated for the cable standard you’re installing. Your tester should be able to check for shorts, opens, or miswires.


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Product Data Sheets (pdf)...Industrial Connector System

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